Oklahoma Onion Burger

Category
Lunch
Cuisine
American
Servings
2
Prep Time
10 min
Cook Time
8 min

This is one of my all-time favourite burgers. It was invented in 1922 in El Reno, Oklahoma by Ross Davis, who was trying to extend his meat supply during the Depression by piling on cheap onions. It’s been kept alive and put back on the map in modern times by George Motz at Hamburger America in New York, and his version is worth going out of your way for if you’re ever in the city. This is my take on it. Beef patties smashed into a bed of paper-thin onions, cooked until the fat renders out and the onions caramelise underneath, then stacked double with American cheese, mustard and pickles on a soft potato bun.

Oklahoma Onion Burger

Key Steps

Paper-thin onions

The onions need to be sliced as thin as you can get them, thin enough that they’ll caramelise in the same time it takes the burger to cook. Too thick and they’ll still be raw when the beef is done. I use a mandolin to achieve this. Set it to the thinnest setting, halve the onions and slice them into wispy shreds. Use the safety guard if you value your fingertips. You need more onions than you think, roughly one large brown onion per patty.

Smash into the onions, not the pan

The technique that makes this burger different from a regular smash burger. Don’t smash the beef ball onto the pan first. Pile a mountain of sliced onions on top of each beef ball, then lay a sheet of parchment paper over the top and smash down through the onions into the meat. This presses the onions into the surface of the beef so they cook together, and the fat rendering out of the patty caramelises the onions from underneath.

Ingredient Notes

Beef mince:

Look for a fattier mince for this burger, around 80/20 or even 70/30 (lean to fat). The extra fat renders out and helps the onions caramelise underneath. If you can, grind your own from chuck with a bit of brisket or ribeye trim mixed in. Otherwise a good butcher’s mince is your best bet.

Brown onions:

Also called yellow or sweet onions in the US. Roughly one large onion per patty is the rule of thumb. Slice them paper-thin on a mandolin, not a knife. The thinner they are, the faster they caramelise, which is what makes the whole recipe work in the short cook time.

American cheese:

The yellow, plastic-wrapped kind. I know it gets ridiculed but for this burger it’s non-negotiable. It melts smoothly and evenly across the patty in a way aged cheddar or blue cheese can’t, and the flavour is exactly what you want alongside the sweet onions and mustard.

Potato buns:

Soft, slightly sweet, and sturdy enough to hold a double stack without falling apart. Brioche buns work too but can be a touch dense. A regular soft burger bun will do in a pinch. A quick toast on the cut side helps the bun hold up to the juices.

Ingredients

  • 440g beef mince (80/20 meat to fat)
  • 3 brown onions
  • 4 soft potato buns
  • 4 slices American cheddar
  • 6 pickle slices
  • American mustard to serve
  • sea salt

Equipment

  • Japanese mandolin
  • Chopping board
  • Chef’s knife
  • Kitchen scale
  • Flat-top BBQ or heavy-based frying pan
  • Burger press or protein press
  • Parchment paper
  • Flat spatula (a big wide one)
  • Tongs

Directions

PREP YOU INGREDIENTS

COOK THE BURGERS

BUILD AND SERVE

Notes

Steam or toast the buns

Once the cheese has melted, pop the bottom bun on top of the patty and let the residual heat and steam soften it. It’s what George Motz does and it’s genuinely great. If you prefer, a light toast on the cut side gives more structure, especially if the burgers might sit for a minute before serving. Either works.

Storage

Burgers are a serve-fresh dish. Leftover cooked patties can go in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 2 days, but the onions will lose their crisp caramelised texture. If you’re prepping ahead, slice the onions up to 4 hours in advance (they’ll oxidise fast if left much longer) and cook the patties fresh at serve time. Don’t freeze.

FAQs

Do I need a mandolin?

Practically, yes. You could try to slice the onions paper-thin with a very sharp knife but it’s slow and inconsistent, and even a slightly thicker slice won’t caramelise fast enough to keep pace with the burger. A basic Japanese mandolin is under $30 and pays for itself across dozens of recipes. Use the guard.

Do I need a burger press?

No, any heavy flat object works. A cast-iron pan bottom, a heavy pot, even a flat metal spatula pressed down with the heel of your hand. The point is even pressure across the whole patty. Always use parchment paper between the press and the beef so nothing sticks.

Can I make this without a BBQ or flat top?

Yes. A heavy cast-iron pan on the stovetop over high heat does the same job. Make sure the pan is properly hot before the beef goes in, and don’t crowd it. Work in batches if your pan can’t hold 4 patties comfortably.

Can I skip the American cheese?

You can, but this burger really wants American cheese. If you can’t get it or don’t want it, thinly sliced good-quality cheddar will work but it won’t melt as smoothly. Skip aged or crumbly cheeses like blue or feta, they don’t melt into the patty the same way.

Can I use a different bun?

Soft is the main thing. Potato buns are ideal because they’re both soft and sturdy. Brioche buns work but are a touch denser. Regular burger buns are fine. Skip anything with too much crust or chew, this burger wants a pillowy bun that gives easily.

Nutrition

Nutrition

Serving Size
1 serving
Calories
per serving
1010
Amount/Serving % Daily Value
Carbs
70 grams
Protein
52 grams
Fat
59 grams
Saturated Fat
23 grams
Fiber
6 grams
Sugar
14 grams
Sodium
1570 milligrams
Cholesterol
155 milligrams
Potassium
1040 milligrams

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